Rubber gaskets are still being used on many vehicles, especially heavy construction equipment. Cleaning these gaskets have always been a problem but Equalizer has solved this with the rubber gasket cleaner. To use the gasket cleaner, place the blade on the gasket and pull it toward you. The blade is sharpened on the end and on both sides so it will clean glass and old sealant out of the gasket with one easy pulling motion. The unique design of the RGC751 keeps your hands clear of the glass.
We all use small ropes to “rope in” rubber gaskets. This handy tool is designed to ease the rope under the lip and seat it in the groove of the gasket. How many times have you rammed a piece of glass in your finger while putting the rope in a rubber gasket or had the rope fall out because it wasn’t inserted properly? You will no longer have these problems with the rope insert tool. Comes with a sturdy rope that will reach around the largest rubber gasket.
Self-locking rubber gaskets are still used on many pieces of equipment and are used extensively in construction equipment. It can be difficult to fold the self-locking rubber into the locking part. Our locking tool works in two ways. First, it rolls the locking part over and second, the rounded tip on the tool forces the locking part into the receiver side of the rubber gasket.
With curved steel shaft. Many people use a screwdriver or windshield stick to push the self-locking part of a rubber gasket into the locking channel. The problem is most screwdrivers have sharp edges and with a windshield stick it is difficult to get the pressure you need. The curved polished steel will slide the locking rubber in easily and the ergonomic handle will give you plenty of leverage.
With a round steel ball on the end, this is the same tool as the MQ1292 but with a small round steel ball on the end. Once the steel ball is inserted down into the rubber gasket it is very difficult for it to come out. If it should slip out of the gasket there is less of a chance you will scratch the paint of the vehicle you are working on.
The curved pigtail end of the tool is most useful when the self-locking rubber is not very old and still a little stubborn. Made of cast aluminum with steel ends. Each end is held in place by a hex screw and therefore easily removable if it becomes damaged.
The straight end works great when the self-locking part goes into place easily. Made of cast aluminum with steel ends. Each end is held in place by a hex screw and therefore easily removable if it becomes damaged.
This is an extended version of the RT753 hook tool. The RTL895 has a 7-1/2" shank, is made of hardened steel and has the same distinctive bent-then-curved end that will help reach over the pinchweld and grab the lip of the rubber easily.
This hook tool measures a long 7" from the bend to base of the handle of the tool. Technicians have asked us for longer versions of our hook tools and this update is long enough for there needs. The hook is 1-1/2" long from curve to tip and is bent in only once so it will work equally well in either direction.
One of the things most technicians do not have is a good set of fingernails. For that reason, it is often difficult for us to get a hold on an item that fits tight against another item. Our hook and pick set comes in four different configurations to help you get under and pry up the smallest item. The straight pick also works great when you are trying to align small holes.
When a glass is missing in a piece of heavy equipment you must make a pattern. Most rubber gaskets have a 5/16" space between the rubber and the pinchweld. When you draw a pattern you must then cut the glass 5/16" smaller so it will fit in the rubber gasket. Our pattern making pencil has an aluminum ring that spaces the pencil exactly 5/16" inside the pinchweld and makes a perfect pattern. No more guessing or redrawing the pattern to fit. Made of aluminum with a collet holder that keeps the pencil in place. Clips in your shirt pocket.
By using this Radius Pattern you can save time and eliminate making cardboard patterns. To use, hold the Radius Patterns against the corner until you find the correct size. Check all four corners to be sure the radius is the same. If the gasket is in place simply measure to the bottom of the rubber channel and cut the glass to that size.
This is another solution to the problem of making patterns for heavy equipment. Usually, a technician must go out, make a pattern, return with the patterns, cut the glass or have someone cut the glass, and then go back and put it in. With our radius patterns, a technician can go by the job site, check the radius on all the broken glass, measure the size, call back to the shop and give a shop person the sizes, and go on to the next job. The shop person can cut the glass and have it ready for the technician to pick up later in the day. Radius patterns have 9 circles starting at 1" and increasing in 1/4" increments up to 3". We have found this will cover the radius size of 99% of the glass in heavy equipment. Hold the radius patterns against the corner until you find the correct size. Check all four corners to be sure the radius is the same. A quick measurement of the opening and you have a pattern. Example: with the rubber gasket removed the opening is 20" by 20" and has a 3" radius. Most rubber gaskets have a 5/16" inset from the pinchweld so you should cut the glass 5/16" smaller all the way around with a 3" radius on the corners. When the glass is cut it measures 19-3/8" by 19-3/8" and has a 3" radius. If the gasket is in place simply measure to the bottom of the rubber channel and cut the glass to that size.